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Seated at a shallow ledge in the back one night, I stood up to talk to one of my dining partners, who was three seats away.The arrangement had a cocktail-party charm until I was asked to return to my seat; I was blocking the path to the restroom.The largest tables hold just four people, as some parties of five or six have learned to their regret.All the other seats are jimmied into blind alleys and passageways around the open kitchen. Villamora takes names and numbers for openings later in the night.
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WASHINGTON — I have now spent roughly twice as many hours standing on the sidewalk outside Bad Saint as I have spent inside eating its Filipino food.
My guests were even more dubious about pancit canton, a Filipino lo mein that can be reassuringly bland. Cunanan, with lots of royal trumpet mushrooms and a steady thrum of Calabrian chiles, it is startlingly good. Villamora and her partner in the restaurant, Nick Pimentel, have Filipino heritage but were born and raised in the United States. Malo, La., the first Filipino settlement in this country.) Mr.
Cunanan was born in the Philippines and has called his mother his main inspiration in the kitchen.